Guide to Bermuda

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Settling into Bermuda is relatively easy. First-timers soon learn that Bermuda isn't one island, as is commonly thought, but a string of islands linked by causeways and bridges -- at least the 20 or so that are inhabited. The other islands can be reached by boat.

Bermuda is a prosperous island characterized by neat, trim houses that are a source of great pride to their owners. There won't be a casino at your megaresort -- Bermuda has no casinos -- and you'd better have your fill of Big Macs before you leave home. There are some fast-food joints, but nothing like those on the U.S. mainland, or even in the Bahamas. There's a sense of order in Bermuda, and everything seems to work efficiently, even when the weather's hot.

For administrative purposes, the islands of Bermuda are divided into parishes, all named for shareholders of the Bermuda Company, which was formed by English investors in the early 1600s to develop Bermuda as a profit-making enterprise.

In the far western part of the archipelago, Sandys (pronounced sands) Parish encompasses the islands of Ireland, Boaz, and Somerset. This parish (named for Sir Edwin Sandys) centers in Somerset Village, on Somerset Island. Sandys Parish is often called Somerset.

Some visitors to Bermuda head directly for Sandys Parish and spend their entire time here; they feel that the far western tip, with its rolling hills, lush countryside, and tranquil bays, is something special and unique. (This area has always stood apart from the rest of Bermuda: During the U.S. Civil War, when most Bermudians sympathized with the Confederates, Sandys Parish supported the Union.) Sandys Parish has areas of great natural beauty, including Somerset Long Bay, the biggest and best public beach in the West End (which the Bermuda Audubon Society is developing into a nature preserve), and Mangrove Bay, a protected beach in the heart of Somerset Village. Take a walk around the old village; it's filled with typically Bermudian houses and shops. On Somerset Road is the Scaur Lodge Property, whose waterfront hillside is open daily at no charge.

If you want to be near the shops, restaurants, and pubs of the City of Hamilton, you may want to stay in a more central location and visit Sandys Parish on a day trip. However, the parish's isolation is part of its charm for those who prefer tranquillity and unspoiled nature to shopping or lingering over an extra pint in a pub. This is the perfect parish for couples seeking privacy and romance.

An advantage of staying here is that Sandys has several embarkation points for various types of sea excursions. The parish also boasts some of the most elegant places to stay in Bermuda. You can commute to the City of Hamilton by ferry, although it's a bit time-consuming, especially if your days on Bermuda are limited.

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Southampton Parish (named for the third earl of Southampton) is a narrow strip of land opening at its northern edge onto Little Sound and on its southern shore onto the Atlantic Ocean. It stretches from Riddells Bay to Tucker's Island, and is split by Middle Road.

If dining at waterfront restaurants and staying at big resort hotels is part of your Bermuda dream, then Southampton is your parish; it's the site of such famed resorts as The Fairmont Southampton and the Sonesta Beach Resort. Southampton is also the best place to stay if you plan to spend a great deal of time on the island's fabled pink, sandy beaches. Among Southampton's jewels is Horseshoe Bay, one of Bermuda's most attractive public beaches, with changing rooms, a snack bar, and space for parking.

Southampton lacks the intimacy and romance of Sandys, but it has a lot of razzle-dazzle going for it. It's the top choice for a golfing holiday. If you like to sightsee, you can easily occupy 2 days just exploring the parish's many attractions. It also has more nightlife than Sandys -- although not as much as the City of Hamilton.

Named in honor of the second earl of Warwick, this parish lies in the heart of Great Bermuda Island. Like Southampton, it is known for its long stretches of rosy sand. Along the south shore is Warwick Long Bay, one of Bermuda's best public beaches. Warwick also offers parklands bordering the sea, winding country roads, two golf courses, and a number of natural attractions. This area is the best on the island for horseback riding, which is the ideal way to see pastoral Bermuda up close.

Warwick is a great choice for visitors seeking cottage or apartment rentals (where you can do some of your own cooking to cut down on the outrageous expense of food). The parish is not strong on restaurants; one of its disadvantages is that you have to travel a bit if you like to dine out. Nightlife is also spotty -- just about the only action you can find after dark is in hotel lounges. This parish is for tranquillity-seekers, but because of its more central location, it doesn't offer quite the seclusion Sandys does.

Pembroke parish (named after the third earl of Pembroke) houses one-quarter of Bermuda's population. It is home to the City of Hamilton, Bermuda's capital and its only full-fledged city. The parish opens at its northern rim onto the vast Atlantic Ocean and on its southern side onto Hamilton Harbour; its western border is on Great Sound. The City of Hamilton is the first destination that most cruise-ship passengers will see.

This parish is not ideal for those seeking a tranquil holiday. Pembroke Parish, already packed with the island's greatest population density, also attracts the most visitors. The little city is especially crowded when cruise ships are in the harbor and travelers pour into the stores and restaurants. Yet for those who like to pub-crawl English style, shop until they drop, and have access to the largest concentration of dining choices, Pembroke -- the City of Hamilton in particular -- is without equal on Bermuda.

Whether or not you stay in Pembroke, try to fit a shopping (or window-shopping) stroll along Front Street into your itinerary. The area also boasts a number of sightseeing attractions, most of which are easily accessible on foot (a plus because you don't have to depend on taxis, bikes, or scooters -- which can get to be a bit of a bore after a while). Nightlife is the finest on the island. Don't expect splashy Las Vegas-type revues, however; instead, think restaurants, pubs, and small clubs.

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