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Guide to the British Virgin IslandsResorts, Hotels, Inns, Lodges & Vacation RentalsBook a Room and Make Reservations at a Place to Stay in the British Virgin Islands, The Caribbean |  |
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The British Virgin Islands embrace 40-odd islands, some no more than just rocks or spits of land in the sea. Only three of the islands are of any significant size: Virgin Gorda (Fat Virgin), Tortola (Dove of Peace), and Jost Van Dyke. These craggy volcanic islands are just 15 minutes by air from St. Thomas; there is also regularly scheduled ferry service between St. Thomas and Tortola.
With its small bays and hidden coves, once havens for pirates, the British Virgin Islands are among the world's loveliest cruising areas. The islands mainly attract those who like to sail, although landlubbers will delight in the beaches. Despite predictions that mass tourism will invade, the islands are still an escapist's paradise. The smaller islands have colorful names, such as Fallen Jerusalem and Ginger. Norman Island is said to have been the prototype for Robert Louis Stevenson's novel Treasure Island. On Deadman Bay, Blackbeard reputedly marooned 15 pirates and a bottle of rum, giving rise to the well-known ditty.
Even though they lie right near each other and are part of the same archipelago, the British Virgin Islands and the U.S. Virgin Islands are as different as Julia Roberts and Dame Judi Dench. U.S. islands like St. Thomas are deep into mega-resort tourism, but it's still a bit sleepy in the B.V.I., where the pace is much slower and laid-back, and the people seem more welcoming and friendlier. Even the capital, Tortola, seems to exist in a bit of a time capsule.
Most of the resorts on Virgin Gorda are so isolated from each other that you'll feel your hotel has the island to itself. For those who want to be truly remote, there is a scattering of minor hotels on a handful of the smaller islands. Peter Island has the poshest lodgings, and there are modest inns on Jost Van Dyke and Anegada. Some places are so small that you basically get to know all the locals after about a week. With no casinos, no nightlife, no splashy entertainment, and often no TV, what does one do at night? Jost Van Dyke has only 150 souls but six bars. Question answered.
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If you'd like to island hop, seeing as many of the different British "Virgins" as you can in 1 week, your best bet is to base yourself in Tortola and take day trips from there. Tortola offers the most convenient network of planes and boats for getting from one island to another.
After a couple of days spent exploring Tortola and its beaches, you can either fly or take the ferry over to the second-most-intriguing island of the B.V.I., Virgin Gorda, which many visitors find even more charming than Tortola. The fastest way to get there is to fly here on Air St. Thomas (tel. 800/522-3084 or 340/776-2722). You can also take Speedy's Fantasy (tel. 284/495-5240;, a ferry service, arriving on Virgin Gorda in time to spend a day at its fabulous Baths and returning to Tortola in the evening.
On yet another day, you can set out to explore the rugged, small, and remote island of Jost Van Dyke, taking the New Horizons Ferry Service (tel. 284/495-9278) from Tortola, a 25-minute trip. Spend the day at the beach and lunch at one of the local eateries, such as Foxy's, before returning to Tortola.
The final island that merits a trip is Anegada, the most northerly of the Virgins, lying 48km (30 miles) east of Tortola. Once on the island, you can visit a bird sanctuary, enjoy uncrowded beaches, and have a lobster lunch at Cow Wreck Beach Bar & Grill. Instead of a ferry service (there isn't any), go by private boat or take a short flight with Fly BVI (tel. 284/495-1747) or Clair Aero Service (tel. 284/495-2271), winging to the island from the Tortola airport.
Of course, you could spend months exploring other hidden islets and tiny islands in the B.V.I. Many of these are accessible only by a private yacht or rented boat. Don't despair if you're boatless -- if you've seen Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Anegada, and Jost Van Dyke, you will have experienced the best of the B.V.I.
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