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Guide to Saint Kitts & Nevis

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Saint Kitts & Nevis Hotels

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The two islands of St. Kitts and Nevis (Nee-vis) were British possessions until 1983, when they became a tiny, independent two-island nation (a ministate, really), complete with U.N. membership. British traditions remain in evidence, however. Cricket is still fiercely popular and motorists drive on the left.

St. Kitts and Nevis slumbered as backwaters of the Caribbean for decades. The country's economy was dependent entirely on sugar cane, making it especially vulnerable to the ravages of hurricanes (Hurricane Hugo, in 1990, caused particularly serious damage). But in recent years, tourists, especially celebrities, have discovered the islands' average year-round temperature of 79°F (26°C), low humidity, white-sand beaches, and unspoiled natural beauty.

Of the two islands, Nevis is the sleepier. It has fewer direct flights from North America, fewer luxury hotels, and almost no nightlife to speak of. It also has a reputation as being a money-laundering haven for drug traffickers and other suspicious businesses (despite adamant denials by Nevis officials). The tiny island has some 9,000 offshore businesses -- about one business per inhabitant -- registered and operating under strict secrecy laws.

Disagreements about controls over offshore banking activities triggered a rift between the two islands that almost led to Nevis's secession. In the most recent referendum on the issue, in 1998, a majority of Nevisians (but not the two-thirds required) voted for independence from St. Kitts.

A local once said that the best reason to go to Nevis was to practice the fine art of limin'. To him, that meant doing nothing in particular. Limin' might still be the best reason to venture over to Nevis. Once here, you can relax and experience this small, calm volcanic island. If you want to lie out in the sun, head for reef-protected Pinney's Beach, a 5km (3-mile) strip of dark-gold sand set against a backdrop of palm trees with panoramic views of St. Kitts. On the Caribbean side, Charlestown, the capital of Nevis, was fashionable in the 18th century, when sugar planters were carried around in carriages and sedan chairs. A town of wide, quiet streets, this port only gets busy when its major link to the world, the ferry from St. Kitts, docks at the harbor.

Columbus sighted Nevis in 1493. He called it Las Nieves, Spanish for snows, because its mountains reminded him of the snow-capped range in the Pyrenees. From St. Kitts, the island appears to be a perfect cone, rising gradually to a height of 970m (3,182 ft.). A saddle joins the tallest mountain to two smaller peaks, Saddle Hill (375m/1,230 ft.) in the south and Hurricane Hill (only 75m/246 ft.) in the north.

Nevis' beauty has remained relatively unspoiled. Coral reefs rim the shoreline, and there's mile after mile of palm-shaded white-sand beaches. Natives of Nevis, for the most part, are descendants of African slaves. In the 18th century, Nevis's hot mineral springs made it the leading spa of the West Indies. The island was also once peppered with prosperous sugar-cane estates, but they're gone now -- many have been converted into some of the most intriguing hotels in the Caribbean. Sea Island cotton is the chief crop today.

Settled by the British in 1628, the volcanic island is famous as the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton, the American statesman who wrote many of the articles contained in The Federalist Papers and was George Washington's treasury secretary. Nevis is also the island on which Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson married Frances Nisbet, a local woman, in 1787, an episode described in James Michener's Caribbean (the historical facts are romanticized, of course).

 

St. Kitts has become a resort mecca in recent years. Its major crop is sugar, a tradition dating from the 17th century. But tourism may overwhelm it in the years to come, as its southeastern peninsula, site of the best white-sand beaches, has been set aside for massive resort development. Most of the island's other beaches are of gray or black volcanic sand.

The Caribs, the early settlers, called the island Liamuiga, or "fertile isle." Its mountain ranges reach up to nearly 1,200m (3,936 ft.), and its interior contains virgin rainforests, alive with hummingbirds and wild green vervet monkeys. The monkeys were brought in as pets by the early French settlers but were set free when the British took control of the island in 1783. These native African animals have proliferated and can be seen at the Estridge Estate Behavioral Research Institute. The British brought in mongooses to control rats in the sugar-cane fields, only to discover that the predators slept during the rats' most active forays. Wild deer are found in the mountains.


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